Source:
Anteckningar från Italien af en svensk diplomat, pages 158 to 160, by Baron Carl Bildt, 1896; original at Oxford University (digitised January 27, 2025)
The account:
Ungefär tre hundra år senare [efter heliga Birgitta] — det var den 13 december 1655 — kom drottning Kristina till Assisi. Redan vid Spello, halfvägs från Foligno, mottogs hon af biskopen, kardinal Rondanini, med flera vagnar, pager och lakejer i sammet, lansryttare och kyrassierer, perukprydda kavaljerer, tal, krus och komplimanger. Drottningen stannade först vid Portiunculan, nu en ståtlig kupolkrönt dôm, som Pius V låtit Vignola resa öfver den heliges anspråkslösa, kära kapell och som fått namnet S. Maria degli Angeli. Där inne lyste det grant af den gryende barock-tidens förgyllningar och snirklar, äkta jesuiterstil, just i Kristinas smak. Hälsad af muskötsalvor, fortsatte hon därifrån uppför kullen till Assisis murar, där guvernören var henne till mötes med magistraten, mera kavaljerer och mera tal. Tåget gick vidare till S. Francesco-kyrkan, där han hörde mässan sjungas med präktig musik och besåg alla relikerna. Giottos fresker ägnade hon ingen uppmärksamhet; de voro ej på modet, och Kristina, ett sant barn af sitt sekel, hade i bedömande af konst ej mycken själfständighet. Nya salvor, kanondunder denna gång, och drottningen steg åter upp i sin af två mulåsnor burna bärstol för att begifva sig till sitt kvarter i Palazzo Giacobilli, där Assisis förnäma damer uppvaktade henne. En stor bankett gafs till Kristinas ära, men endast de förnämsta gästerna, bland dem Pimentelli, fingo plats i palatset. De öfriga fingo äta i klostret, där tio rikt utstyrda rum iordningställts åt dem.
Efter middagen drog sig Kristina tillbaka till sina rum och sysselsatte sig — gissa med hvad? Jo, hon skickade efter krokanerna, som varit på bordet, och granskade noga de mästerverk, sockerbageriet frambragt. Där voro de fyra hufvuddygderna i socker, Pallas, Apollo med en förgylld vase, Kristina själf, som höll Tiden fången, klippor, kolonner, heroer, harpyor, allt i socker, smickrets och sliskighetens triumf. Så noga hade drottningen redan under måltiden betraktat figurerna, att hon märkte, att det fattades en, och lät skicka efter den. Det lönade mödan, ty det var Odödligheten.
Sedan detta var förrättadt, hade Kristina intet mer att göra i Assisi utan steg upp i sin bärstol och återvände till Foligno, följd till Portiunculan af kardinal-biskopen och hans granna eskort. — Sådant var Gustaf Adolfs dotters besök vid Francescos graf.
English translation (my own):
About three hundred years later [after Saint Birgitta] — it was December 13, 1655 — Queen Kristina came to Assisi. Already at Spello, halfway from Foligno, she was received by the bishop, Cardinal Rondanini, with several carriages, pages and footmen in velvet, lancers and cuirassiers, cavaliers adorned with wigs, speeches, frills and compliments.
The Queen stopped first at the Portiuncula, now a stately domed cathedral, which Pius V had Vignola build over the Saint's modest, dear chapel and which has been named Santa Maria degli Angeli. Inside it shone brightly with the gilding and scrollwork of the dawning Baroque era, true Jesuit style, just to Kristina's taste. Greeted by musket salvos, she continued from there up the hill to the walls of Assisi, where the governor met her with the magistrate, more cavaliers and more speeches.
The train went on to the Church of Saint Francis, where she heard the Mass sung with splendid music and looked at all the relics. She paid no attention to Giotto's frescoes; they were not in fashion, and Kristina, a true child of her century, had not much independence in judging art. New salutes, cannon fire this time, and the Queen again mounted her litter, borne by two mules, to go to her quarters in the Palazzo Giacobilli, where the noble ladies of Assisi courted her.
A great banquet was given in Kristina's honour, but only the most distinguished guests, among them Pimentel, were allowed a place in the palazzo. The rest had to eat in the cloister, where ten richly furnished rooms had been prepared for them.
After dinner, Kristina retired to her rooms and occupied herself with — guess what? Well, she sent for the pièces montées that had been on the table and carefully examined the masterpieces the sugar bakery had produced. There were the four cardinal virtues in sugar, Pallas, Apollo with a gilded vase, Kristina herself, holding Time captive, rocks, columns, heroes, harpies, all in sugar, the triumph of flattery and sloppiness. The Queen had already examined the figures so carefully during the meal that she noticed that one was missing and had it sent for. It was worth the effort, for it was Immortality.
After this was done, Kristina had nothing more to do in Assisi, but got into her litter and returned to Foligno, followed to the Portiuncula by the Cardinal-Bishop and his close escort. — Such was the visit of Gustav Adolf's daughter to Francis' tomb.
Above: Kristina.
Above: Baron Carl Bildt.
Note: A pièce montée is a kind of decorative confectionery centerpiece in an architectural or sculptural form used for formal banquets and made of such ingredients as "confectioner's paste", nougat, marzipan and spun sugar. Although the ingredients are typically edible, their purpose is mainly decorative, and they are often not meant to be consumed.
