Source:
The Sibyl of the North: The Tale of Christina, Queen of Sweden, pages 124 to 136, by Faith Compton Mackenzie, 1931; original scan at the Universal Digital Library
Kristina's letter of October 25/November 4 (New Style), 1655 to Karl Gustav is here:
The account:
CHAPTER VIII
THE ROAD TO ROME
CHARLES GUSTAVUS had not only sent Count Tott to Brussels, but he had given him letters addressed to numerous kings and princes for Christina to present as she passed through their domains. In this he showed that he was not confident of her reception in her altered circumstances. It was a decent but tactless action, and Christina spurned these letters of introduction. Her own glory and fame were passports to the whole world, even, surely she was convinced, to heaven itself when the time came. Montecuculi was sent on ahead with a letter to the Archduke of Innsbrück announcing her intention of staying in that town on her way to Rome.
There was little incident on the journey from Brussels, except a visit from King Charles II of England and the Duke of Gloucester at Königstein. Christina was one of the many ladies Charles had wanted to marry. Whitelock had been shocked to hear herself confirm the rumour of his proposals, but until this moment she had not seen the exiled King. It was observed that when they conversed he uncovered, and remained so throughout the interview, "with great reverence." They talked for two hours.
Through historic Nördlingen she went, and would not stay for banquets offered her, but pressed on, through Frankfurt, Rottenburg, over the Danube to Augsburg. Here she was shown a table at which her father had dined after one of his victories. She shed a few tears for the memory of the great Gustavus Adolphus. But the Alps were in sight, and every day the call of the South became more insistent.
On the 26th of October the ascent of the mountains began, and at Zirla, a little village, she was met in state by the Archduke and Archduchess[,] who conducted her to Innsbrück. Here Monsignor Holstenius had everything prepared for the public reception of Christina into the Church. With him had come Père Malines, who had been one of the disguised visitors to the Court of Stockholm. He was sent to meet the Queen, and explain to her the details of the ceremony as desired by the Pope, and she expressed herself ready to obey the orders of His Holiness with great humility.
On the 3rd of November Innsbrück was en fête for one of the most remarkable ceremonies it had ever seen. Christina, clad in a severe black silk gown with no ornament save a wonderful cross composed of five large diamonds, walked through the carpeted streets to the Cathedral, where she renounced the faith of her fathers. She read her long profession in a clear, deep, emotional voice, kneeling, with the Archduke and Pimentelli beside her, and at the end a Jesuit preached a sermon on the text: "Hearken, O daughter, and incline thine ear; forget also thine own people and thy father's house."
Great rejoicings followed this ceremony, and in the evening an Italian musical comedy was played before the Queen. This was considered inappropriate to the solemn occasion, and a sort of apology was offered to Christina for the want of taste of the organizer of the entertainment. Christina, who had thoroughly enjoyed it, replied:
"Gentlemen, it is most appropriate that you should entertain me with a comedy after the farce I played for you this morning."
This remark, so typical of Christina, was seized upon by her enemies and indignantly repudiated by her admirers. No doubt the atmosphere, in spite of the Italian comedy, was hanging rather heavily about her, and it was her pleasure to lighten it. She enjoyed a pageant while it lasted and her profession was sincere, but now that it was over[,] her spirits began to bubble over again. She could not be serious for long, and her reactions were swift, her temperament resilient.
Next day she wrote this letter to Charles Gustavus:
"SIR AND BROTHER, — I have arrived here safely, and I have received the permission and orders of His Holiness to declare myself what I have long been. It is a great happiness to me to obey him; and I prefer the glory of obeying him to ruling over the dominions which are now yours. You should be pleased with this resolution of mine, even though you disapprove of it, because it is so much to your advantage. I assure you that it does not alter my affection for you, nor the love I have for Sweden, which will never change.
Your affectionate sister and friend,
CHRISTINA.
November, 1655."
While the four replicas of her profession were being made, the days were spent in "virtuous recreations", according to her historian Gualdo. The documents were signed by Christina; one she kept herself, one was sent to the Pope, and the other two were placed in the archives of Innsbrück and the Vatican.
And now at last — Italy!
Perhaps the journey from Innsbrück to Rome was the happiest and least troubled period of Christina's life. There was all the joy of anticipation; there was the glorious satisfaction of being the most discussed figure in Europe — a crescendo of gossip was almost audible even as she crossed the Alps. What would the errant Queen do next? Anything was possible. The world was watching for new developments. And a soothing fact was the momentary absence of financial cares. A handsome present from Charles Gustavus towards the expenses of her journey and a huge loan effected in Antwerp solved all present problems. On the 8th of November the company set out, escorted for a few miles by the Archduke and all the nobles of Innsbrück. Over the Brenner pass to Stenzing [sic]; over the clear Adige river to Trent, where the Prince of Trent entertained her with great pomp. The Venetian Republic, having no wish to waste money on useless entertainments, and being engaged on its fifth war against the infidel Turk, had forbidden her and her company to enter the State of Venice, on the pretext of plague in the country they had passed through. They contented themselves with a present of fish, plenty of compliments and good wishes for her journey.
Then across the river Po to Rovere, where the Duke and Duchess of Mantua came to greet her; and here, it is sad to relate, she was also greeted by rain, which fell with tropical violence for two days. In spite of the mud, the usual ceremoney [sic] of descending from their coaches for a formal greeting was observed, the Duke standing bare-headed, and both parties entreating one another to get in out of the rain and mud.
A gorgeous banquet was held in Christina's honour at the Ducal Palace, from which Pimentelli was absent on account of ill-health, and then in pouring rain she set out across the fens for Ferrara. Half-way there she was met by the four nuncios sent from Rome with a Papal brief for her, and a special carriage and travelling-bed to bring her to Rome. Though she had renounced for the moment travelling en cavalier and went in her coach and six English black horses, she was dressed on this occasion in a black velvet cape of masculine cut, with wide collar and grey trimmings.
But what pleased her more than the Papal brief or the travelling-bed was the sight of the Marchese Girolamo Rossetti's wonderful bridge over the Po at Ponte del Largo. It was wide enough for four carriages to pass abreast, rested on forty-six great barcone, and was one of the most beautiful constructions in Europe. A luxurious barge decorated with the arms of the Pope and Christina had been prepared to take her across the river at this point, but she insisted upon going by the bridge, which was immediately lined with soldiery not only to salute the royal party, but to demonstrate the solidity of the structure.
Two days festa for Ferrara! Christina was now in the Papal State, and she sent Montecuculi to Rome with letters of humble thanks to the Pope for his graciousness. Don Luigi Pio di Savoia, brother of one of the nuncios, gave a great banquet for her at Ferrara. Music and painting were discussed. Music, she said, was the ornament of princes, and her favourite artists were Bernini and Pietro di Cortona. On the subject of architecture she declared that St. Peter's in Rome, the Duomo in Milan, and St. Paul's in London were surely the greatest cathedrals, but the latter had, alas, become a stable.
Another glass of wine!
Never had she drunk so much wine as since she came into Italy, but then, never had it tasted so good.
At this there was some respectful drollery. Cardinal Vescovo ventured that in his opinion she drank nothing but water. Two glasses of wine were nothing but due sorsi.
A really amusing banquet, and her first intimate encounter with members of the Sacred College.
Everywhere the same ceremonies greeted Christina. Salvos, fanfares, triumphal arches and fireworks — banquets and special Masses in all the churches. In deference to the great learning of the royal traveller, academies were organized for her amusement, long panegyrics were read by the leading local intellectual lights, and many ladies, no doubt radiant stars in their own ambient, were moved to recite poems in her honour. At Bologna there was a magnificent tournament by the principle nobles and gentlemen of the city in which more than a hundred and fifty lances were broken. This kind of entertainment Christina preferred to second-rate academies. At Faenza specially elaborate preparations had been made for a display of local talent. No fewer than thirty compositions, ecclesiastical and secular, in several languages, were to be recited as spiritual food for Her Majesty after the usual banquet. But no sooner was the banquet finished than Christina rose hurriedly, announcing that she was obliged to continue the journey immediately, though it was late in the evening and no preparations had been made. She had most decidedly not come to Italy to be bored. Whatever her taste may have been in human beings, in intellectual matters she was fastidious.
At Forli she had to endure an academy, but was consoled by the present of a wonderful white horse which she had admired. She set off in full panoply again, astride her horse, and was met by the Governor of Rimini, and it was twilight when the cavalcade entered the Piazza, which was gaily illuminated, and at the doors of the Palazzo Pubblico nobly dressed pages held torches as she passed. On the stairs she found a large company of ladies quaintly attired, who performed solemn and well-rehearsed dances for her before the inevitable academy began.
The next important place was Pesaro, and to Christina it was more important than she guessed. A great company came out to meet her, including the very eminent Cardinal Homodei, Legate of Urbino, with fifty of his Swiss Guards. But more notable even than Cardinal Homodei were two young gentlemen of what Gualdo calls nobiltà conspicua, the Counts Francesco and Ludovico Santinelli, sons of Count Alfonso Santinelli, the first knight of Pesaro.
This fascinating pair of brothers, if not conspicuous for their nobility, were conspicuous in the entertainments arranged for Christina. They first attracted her attention at the festa held in her apartments on the night of her arrival. They opened with a gagliarda, and because they were dancing with capes and swords, Christina begged them to remove both, so that she could see them better. They then danced another gagliarda, which so delighted Christina that she called for a canario. They executed this with delightful grace. Francesco Maria counted among his many accomplishments the making of a verse, and Christina had already been presented with a finely bound volume of his poems, consisting chiefly of praise of herself. After the dancing[,] she supped privately to the music of a violin and lute.
Next day, after hearing Mass in the monastery of St. Catherine, and spending some time with the nuns who were famous for their singing, she lunched publicly with the Cardinal. Here Francesco Santinelli had the honour of serving her. After lunch the Queen was again enchanted by the Santinelli dancing. This time it was a Spanish Cachuca and Ludovico[,] the agile performer. The academy which followed was naturally more sophisticated and amusing than those of the less important cities, the more so as the talents of the Santinellis were again in evidence; for Francesco was responsible for the whole programme, which Christina later declared to be the most diverting entertainment of all her travels. She cannot be blamed for falling a little bit in love with the Santinellis.
At the next point in her journey, Sinigaglia, a ridiculous comedietta[,] was performed by the brothers, which had been written by Francesco in a single night for her amusement.
And this was not the end of the table of their accomplishments. After the comedietta she was curious to see how these two young men sat a horse. There followed a splendid exhibition of horsemanship and swordsmanship before which all her defences fell, and they were, with very few formalities, attached to her suite as gentlemen of the chamber, which is no doubt what they had been playing for.
At Loreto, as soon as Christina saw the cupola of the sanctuary in the distance, she descended from her horse and knelt reverently. Later, she laid at the feet of Our Lady of Loreto a beautiful sceptre and crown set with diamonds and pearls, on one of which the face of the Virgin was clearly visible. This was obviously a symbolical act of homage, but next day when she was asked if she would like to see where the precious objects had been put, she said:
"No, such bagatelles aren't worth looking at."
The gesture was done and finished with.
The rest of the journey was a crescendo of fireworks, rejoicings, rain, mud, and sometimes snow. At Storta, a few miles out of Rome, two cardinals of royal blood headed a great procession that came out to greet her in the name of the Pope. One of the cardinals was Frederick of Hesse, whom Christina had tried to dissuade from joining the Church a few years ago. Though her entrance into Rome was strictly incognito, she was accompanied by an imposing company of cardinals, noblemen, coaches and cavaliers and Pope's Guard. She rode in a state coach and wore her usual grey dress, black cape and no jewellery[,] but a single ring. Rome was reached late in the evening. In spite of the hour[,] a huge crowd waited in the Vatican gardens, and had no compunction in following her into the Vatican itself.
"Is this how one enters Rome incognito?" she asked, laughing.
But the Pope was waiting for her, and soon she was walking between two cardinals through the vast torch-lit galleries of the Vatican, eager to see the only being on earth whom she considered worthy of her homage.
With her hands crossed on her breast[,] she knelt at his feet. For the first time in her life[,] she humbled herself — a new sensation, and for that not to be despised. The Pope, as enthusiastic as she at the meeting and all it implied, raised her and set her beside him under his canopy, a place of honour conceded to few. Thus they conversed for half an hour. This interview, and all subsequent private audiences, were conducted with open doors; Alexander was not going to risk a repetition of the scandal regarding the sainted Gregory VII and Mathilda of Tuscany.
Courtesy seemed to demand that Christina should be invited to spend at least her first night at the Vatican, as her arrival was so untimely and the weather so unpleasant. Fortunately there were the apartments built by Innocent VIII, so far away from His Holiness's own quarters that there was no fear of the slightest embarrassment. Alexander himself had supervised the preparation of the Queen's retreat, which looked upon the magnificent Belvedere gardens. With exquisite sensibility he ordered an inscription under the figure of Tramontano (North wind) to be erased from the Torre de' Venti, for fear she or her people should take it amiss. It was "Omne malum ab aquilone" ["All evil comes from the north."].
Christina was guest at the Vatican for a few days, and the first morning she was up at an early hour — she must have had no more than her usual allowance of three hours' sleep in spite of the physical and mental strain of yesterday. She wandered in the Belvedere gardens with Montecuculi and Monsignore Acarigi, Cup-bearer to His Holiness, conversing in French, and no doubt admiring with interest the incomparable statuary therein. The Rhodian Laocoon had pride of place in those gardens, and in niches to protect them from the weather were many of the glorious statues which are now to be seen only in museums. Fountains were playing[,] and perhaps the sun was shining while Christina walked in the Belvedere gardens with her companions. The "bel vedere" was of Rome, and her short-sighted eyes gazed out with wonder at the city of her desire.
The silver coach, litter and sedan chair designed for her state entry into Rome by Cavaliere Bernini — where could they be seen?
Her curiosity was immediately satisfied. Bernini was sent for. He was probably only just round the corner superintending the great work of his life, St. Peter's Colonnade. He was at any rate at hand, and took Christina to see the Pope's gifts, which were wonderfully designed with elaborate figures and many inventions of the great sculptor. Sky blue velvet and silver galloon were used for the hangings and upholstery, and for the six pure white Neapolitan horses that were to draw the coach there were draperies of the same and silver harness. Christina examined every detail with enthusiasm.
"Whatever is bad about it is my work", said Bernini with affected modesty.
"Then none of it can be yours", she declared.
Now she must see the white saddle-horse the Pope was also giving her. The beautiful animal was led out, and Christina mounted it at once. She proceeded to give a remarkable display of horsemanship, performing some feats bareback[,] to the amazement of the onlookers. A yearly tribute from Naples to the Pope was a chinea — a pure white horse, probably a small breed with an Arab strain, and it was one of these that Christina was finding so responsive, so quick to turn, so lively and mettlesome.
Silver coaches were all very well — anyone could ride in them....
The Vatican library was then explored, and Holstenius, who was librarian, must have shown her treasures she envied, most of all two parchment Virgils of a thousand years ago. Holstenius himself had a collection of rareties, one of the finest in Europe. So Christina's first day in Rome was after her own heart. Her public entry into the city was supposed to take place three days after her arrival, but the preparations were so vast that it had to be postponed. Instead, His Holiness visited Christina in her apartments, and they walked up and down conversing (with curtains and doors wide) in her private room. When he left her, it was observed that she accompanied him to his chair and shut the door of it with her own hands, with many other pretty acts of reverence.
The day of the State entry was a Roman holiday. Bombs and guns resounded from daybreak. But again the weather threatened to spoil everything. In a deluge Christina set out from the courtyard of the Belvedere in the Pope's carriage with her huge following, through the Porta Angelica and outside the gates to the villa built by Giulio III, and there for several hours the vast company waited for the rain to stop. Just when it had been decided to abandon the procession[,] the clouds broke, the sun burst through, everybody cheered up[,] and the great cavalcade started. At the Porta Flaminia, now the Porta del Popolo, the immense procession was met by the College of Cardinals on horseback, and here Cardinal Barberini welcomed her in the name of the community. The gate had been completed by Bernini in her honour after Michael Angelo's original design, to which had been added an inscription commemorating the "happy and joyous entry of Queen Christina" (Felici faustoque ingressi Christina Suecorum Reginæ) A. D. 1655. Over the gate the Papal arms, six hills surmounted by a star, were united with the Vasa sheaf of corn, which was not unlike the fascia of modern Italy.
Bernini's silver coach and litter were notable features of the procession, but they were empty. At the last moment Christina had decided to enter Rome on her white chinea. Bernini's own sentiments on the occasion are not recorded, but Rome was amazed to see the regal convert astride her steed, booted and spurred, as though for the chase instead of her solemn reception into the Catholic fold.
Alexander had impressed upon his cardinals and those about the Vatican that this Queen from the North was not likely to understand Latin ways. Decorum must be strictly observed. No chattering or spitting. Let them beware; the honour of the Church depended greatly upon their behaviour. The steps of St. Peter were lined with cardinals when Christina dismounted in the Piazza and strode up the steps to be received by them. She wore a mantle of black over her grey and gold just-au-corps, grey and gold breeches (some say white) and a huge cavalier's hat[,] heavily plumed.
Whatever the cardinals may have thought about decorum, whatever they may have expected to see, they did not flinch, not even the ancient Gian Carlo and Sforza, who[,] by reason of their years and position[,] were detailed to lead her to the Pope who stood at the High Altar. Here she was received, and the Piazza of St. Peter resounded with the deafening explosions of bombs great and small, while she kissed the toe of His Holiness, and he declared that her conversion was so precious that heaven itself must be en fête.
Two days later, on Christmas Day, she was confirmed, taking the name of Maria Alexander [sic], the latter in deference to the Pope and because Alexander the Great was one of her heroes. Her last day at the Vatican was signalized by an invitation to dine with His Holiness. As the rule forbade his eating at the same board as a woman, they had separate tables, the Pope's being a few inches higher than hers. Likewise[,] his chair of red velvet was slightly more exalted. But she had a royal seat specially made for her, surmounted by a canopy. Don Antonio de la Cueva, her Grand Equerry, and Francesco Santinelli were in attendance on her. Conversation was not necessary, because a sermon was preached by the Jesuit Father Oliva throughout the lengthy repast, during which Christina interpolated a few observations which everyone found brilliant and to the point, but which were not recorded. After dinner they were again in private conversation, and the evening concluded in Christina's apartments with a musical and dramatic entertainment.
Next day, with many regrets expressed on both sides, Christina exchanged the hospitality of the Vatican for Palazzo Farnese.
Life in Rome had begun at last.
Above: Kristina.
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Above: Karl Gustav.
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Above: Pope Alexander VII.
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